The Revolution is Not a Dinner Party

It's Just Lunch....or IS IT??

Saturday, March 26, 2005

Per Se per chance?

I've always fleeced my parents whenever they come to visit me. I see nothing wrong with that. My love is expensive. However, even I was surprised when they eagerly agreed to go to Per Se during this visit. They may keep their cars for 10 years, but my folks will always shell out for a good meal.

Its not every day one gets to go to arguably one of the best restaurants in the world. Its also not every day that lunch costs $175 per person (not including wine, tax, and tip). Was it worth it? I really can’t answer that. It was a fantastic meal. 9 courses: caviar and cauliflower “panna cotta” (I’m not sure why that is in quotes, I'm copying off the menu here); California green asparagus with blood oranges, sorrel mushrooms, and citrus “sabayon;” sautéed pompano with almond crust; “fricassee” of nova scotia lobster “mitts;” young rabbit sirloin wrapped in applewood smoked bacon; rib-eye veal “roti a la broche;” “tome de savoie” cheese with artichoke mustard and arugala; fresh yogurt sorbet; and chocolate treats. Even the bread was outstanding. The butter is shipped in from far flug verdant corners of this great nation. The wine menu is bigger than my Con Law book.

The sum of the meal was better than any of its parts, which is really unbelievable if you think about it. The highlights for me were the veal and the pompano, both were outstanding. The caviar and cauliflower “panna cotta” seemed a bit ill-conceived, or maybe just too adventurous. There’s a million other ways I’d rather have my Sevruga Caviar than on top of cauliflower jello. Even this dish, which I just called ill-conceived, was delicious. All in all, it was the type of meal that makes you want to light a cigar with a hundred dollar bill.

The restaurant’s dinning room exudes a timeless yet modern elegance. The views of Columbus Circle and the Park are amazing. We somehow scored the little private room off to the side, which was sweet. Being that this is the Yale Law School of waiterdom, the service was impeccable. Tomas Keller, you cad, you’ve outdone yourself this time.

P.S. I know I'm cruising for a christian-right fatwah, what with the Terri Shciavo jokes and this completely gluttonous report of blue-state excess. Part of me says dying in the name of modernity and rationality isn't that bad a thing (where have you gone Theo Van Gogh?). The other side says, please don't kill me. I'm Jewish. We don't know any better.


At 10:22 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

we have a con law book?

At 11:28 AM, Anonymous minnie said...


At 9:54 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

what you're "crusing" for is a sweet God, your spelling is extravagantly atrocious. but when you come from such spending power, you can do that. love, kafui

At 4:25 PM, Blogger rfn said...

you heathen!!! for the cost of your orgy of a.j. liebling-style east coast elitist gluttony you could have funded an entire day of intensive care for the likes of ms. schiavo. i fear for your sated soul...


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